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Trekking, 'Boars Wandering', Corsica, Aug 2016, ID 2056

Aberdeen UOTC

Ex BOARS WANDERING was an overseas Expedition to Corsica, France. The selected route was the Tra Mare e Monti meaning between the Mountains and the Sea, going from Calenzana to Cargese via Galeria, Ota and Evisa. This was medium level adventure training activity. The Expedition was comprised of 18 Reserve Officer Cadets and 1 Full Time Reserve Service Officer and 2 Regular Officers. The Regular Officers were from 42 (Infantry) Brigade and 9 Regiment, the Royal Logistic Corps. The Remaining members of the Expedition were from Aberdeen UOTC.

The Mare e Monti is broken into 10 stages with Gites & Campsites at every etape. It is the oldest and most famous trail in Corsica after the GR20 (the GR20 is more technically difficult but you don’t start at sea level most days), zigzagging down the northwest coast of Corsica. Scenic diversity is the hallmark of the TMM, which begins at Moriani-plage on the east coast and winds west through the heart of the mountains. After a prolonged initial climb from sea level to enter the Bozio region, the path passes through a succession of hill villages to Corte, and then presses up the old Genoan mule track along Tavignano gorge to reach the Niole Valley via Col deI’Arinella. With dramatic Monte Cinto and Paglia Orba massifs looming to the north, the trail then crosses the Col de Verghio into the Spelunca gorge, dropping through Evisa and Marignana to follow deserted ridgetops and forested valleys back down to the sea at Cargese. The Mare e Monti is one of Corsica's most celebrated trails, and it more than deserves its reputation.

Day 1, the route begins in the main street at Calenzana, once renowned for its bandits, now a sleepy backwater with, nonetheless, useful shops, restaurants and a gited'etape. Things started well with a rapid southward climb through the island's "garden region", Balagne, and then into the celebrated wonders of the Bonifatu forest. We covered 11 km with a climb of 581m. Water consumption was critical with temperatures of 31 degrees and with Bergans weighing anything from 11- 15 kgs including water and food for 2 days. All members worked hard with great effort to complete the first day. We camped overnight at Bonifatu Camp Site.

Day 2, carries you steeply up through the forest to Tuarelli. However there was 1200 m climb through the beautiful Bonifatu Forest: with the weight and heat this took longer than expected. However, everyone managed it. We then camped overnight at Tuarelli Camp Site.

Day 3, the path then curves back west towards the coast, hitting its first beach at Galeria. This was the easiest day on the trail with the reward of swimming in the sea. The group covered a distance of 10 km with a height gain of only 180 m. We overnighted at a Camp in Galeria.

Day 4, walk, one of the best, crosses a wonderful wooded ridge that skirts and offers stunning views of the protected Scandola promontory nature reserve and the sea beyond, and fetchs up at Girolata, an extraordinarily atmospheric largely seasonal fishing village only accessible by sea or foot. This was a distance of 12 km with a height gain of 874 m. Again this was a difficult day for some of the group but with support from other members we all managed it. Girolata was well worth the effort.

Day 5, then follows a weary day’s climb, enlivened by superb views, up and mostly inland to the village of Curzu, where the Camp Site also offers a terrific restaurant. A total of 13 kms and a climb of 852 m. Again group doing well with great personal administration and determination.

Day 6, in an undemanding and not madly rewarding traverse of miles of maquis to the village of Serriera, and another uphill grind to Bocca San Petru, where the views explode spectacularly. The expedition covered only 8 km on this leg with 360 m climb. However, it was good to have a bit of administration time to sort out equipment and above all rest.

Day 7, Isolated on a verdant ledge, Ota is dominated by Capo d’Ota, a colossal domed rock. This is one of the most dramatic and beautiful villages within Corsica. Here we stayed inside a Gite because there was no campsite nearby but that was after a 10 km walk with a ridge of 914m. Group now well and truly acclimatised and now moving quicker.

Day 8, navigating the Spelunca Gorge with its lovely Genoese bridges and gorgeous swimming places and joining the Mare-Mare Nord trail at Evisa, where we brought further food supplies and then on to overnight Marignana. We covered a distance of 11 km but getting out of the Spelunca Gorge we had to climb 830 m. Heat injury was no longer a threat. During this stage a member of the team injured her knee and had to complete the following days by coach.

Day 9, this stage was the longest 20 km, with the highest point being 1102m to the gite at E Case, is a long, mountainous one of many ups and downs. Team were now really strong and determined to complete the challenge with the end in sight.

Day 10, the final day leads you down along undemanding paths to the journey's end comforts of the well-appointed seaside town of Cargese. However at the last part of this Stage there was a small matter of 380 m hill in the way which had to be navigated to complete the trail. I personally remember this being the hardest section being so close to the end. 11 km covered and 650 m ascended.

Summary, this trail is not to be taken lightly - it is very difficult during the Mediterranean summer. Temperatures rose to 31 to 38 degrees throughout the day. To overcome this reveille was at 0600 hours, departing the camp sites and gites at 0700 hrs after a water parade to ensure that every member of the expedition was hydrated. We were carrying up to 7 litres of water per person adding to the weight being carried. With good leadership and sound personal administration, at times everyone was tested, including the mountain leaders. The overall height ascended was 7543m over 125km, with rucksacks weight anything from 11 to 16 kgs. It was a real challenge and we all completed it without anyone suffering from heat injury. These Officer Cadets can be extremely proud of their achievements.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank the Ulysses Trust for the generous donation to this exercise without which it wouldn’t have taken place, once again thank you.

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